It's been a helluva a week at school. It's the week before midterms and some professors seem to like the idea of giving a test one week and then a midterm test the next. Go figure. So that's why I've been dragging my butt on getting the Misty post together, but it should be wrapped up very soon. Meanwhile, I was scoping out some other blogs in my "free time" and came across a great post on Erich Purpor's blog on some climbing history at the Dump, one of our best local cragging spots here in Boone. The history is told by Mike Grimm, co-owner of Misty, so it dovetails nicely with the post to come. Erich works out at Misty, and he was cool enough to let me repost his article here. He's constantly updating his blog with stuff from here in Boone and also the New, where he spent the summer. Be sure to check out his fun new 'Punt of the Week' feature while you're on his site. BTW, if you've never been to the Dump and want to check it out some time, a guide is available from Full Mantle Press.
Local Climbing History - The Dump
After spending the day with the coolest guy in the world, Mike Grimm, I got the run down on some climbing history at our local sport crag, The Dump. Call me a nerd but I really enjoy hearing Boone climbing history. I can't get enough of it! Here is some route-by-route info.
Pigs in Zen (aka Porter's 13)- FA Porter Jarrard. The original route up the steep wall, this was done years before many of the other easy routes in the area were climbed. Originally, the route sported some of the infamous "porter hangers". Basically just angle iron bolted to the wall.
Josh on the crux moves of Pigs in Zen. Photo: Matt de Camera
Beavis Christ- FA Ashley Overton? This was the first route up this section of the steep wall. I found this very interesting because this route is now viewed as a link up of "Unwritted Law" and "Tiers for Allah" and not often climbed.
Tiers for Allah (aka Triple Roof aka Shovin' Joe Crocker)- FA Diab Rabie. Yet another interesting story. This route is the bolted direct start into the original finish of "Beavis Christ". There is some controversy over the first ascent. Apparently Joey Henson claimed the FA and named the route "Triple Roof". It was later confirmed that Diab Rabie had in fact climbed the route first. This was not known to 2 other climbers Seth Tart and Joe Crocker. When Tart was asked about the possibility of Joe Crocker possibly sending the route first, Tart responded "If he sends it I will shove him into a wall." Hence the name "Shovin' Joe Crocker."
The Mangler- Equipper Gus Glitch. The 2nd route bolted on this wall. This route is immediately right of "Porter's 13" and featured what are now the first 3 bolts of "Unwritten Law". This route sported a bolted on hold as well as other enhanced/chipped holds. What is interesting is that the route still didn't go. This route was controversial due to these enhancements and was eventually chopped. Gus said the grade would be 5.15a.
Unwritten Law- FA Chad Hilliard. Now the most heavily traveled route on The Dump's steep wall, this broke off from "The Mangler", climbed another bolt on "Beavis Christ" and finished directly under a large roof. The last bolt is the most heavily whipped on at the dump.
Daniel Kadwell sticks the last move on "Unwritten Law." Photo: Dalen Gray.
Ride the Lightning- FA Joey Henson. The last route to go on this wall. This route was equipped by Chad Hilliard as the extension to "Unwritten Law". Joey snaked the route and sent "the boulder problem in the sky".
Fry Cleaned- FA I-Fry. I got this info from Fry himself. Fry was used to spending long hours cleaning and equipping routes. To his amazement he cleaned and equipped this in about an hour. He compared the experience to dropping your clothes off at the dry cleaner. Dry Cleaned, Fry Cleaned
Cromagnon Acid Test- FA I-Fry. On the day Fry was set to get the redpoint on this, Mike Grimm gave Fry a ride to The Dump. Fry had left his quickdraws on the route in anticipation of the send, but to his dismay they had been stolen. In a rage, Fry borrowed some draws and sent the rig, establishing yet another FA at the dump.