Injury Update

Since I've got like 2 weeks of insurance left I figured I might as well spend somebody else's money (well, mostly--I'm sure I'll get a co-pay bill soon) and get my shoulder and neck looked at by a sports medicine place. Prognosis: Not great. They want to do an MRI because they want to investigate the possibility of a labrum tear. That's right, a labrum tear. I tore this same muscle/ligament thing in my right shoulder in 2003 and needed surgery, so I guess I might as well get a matching set of scars.

The thing is I don't feel like it's my labrum. I couldn't even open car doors back in 2003 without pain and this recent injury feels nowhere near as bad. But I guess it doesn't hurt to get it checked off the list of possible crap that's wrong with me. If it is a slight labrum tear, I won't do the surgery. It took me years to get over that mess last time. I'll just become an old, bearded tradster rocking out 5.9s for the rest of my days. That actually doesn't sound so bad. Bouldering's freaking hard. Regardless, wish me luck when they slide me into the claustrophobic MRI tube.

Oh, the silver lining, you ask? I did get a script for muscle relaxers, which are awesome with a pitcher of margaitas.


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Rumbling Bald Fundraiser Update, Part III

We have a new winner in the longest-distance contributor category: this weekend someone donated from Bishop, CA. Word about the Bald must get around I guess, even to people with sick bouldering in their own backyards. Thanks to him and all other contributors near and far, we've raised $385 so far. That, my friends, is just awesome. There are just a few more days of the fundraiser left--it's over on the 14th. And it'd do my fund-raising soul good to see the number get to the $400 point (if not a bit further :). So anyone out there who's been thinking about entering the contest, now's your chance to win glory, gratify my type-A personality (which likes reaching goals), and bring the total up to $400. I know you've been out there lurking in the shadows, just waiting for the right moment to hit the button...

Thanks again to all who have helped out so far. Your commitment to the boulders we all share is really appreciated. I'm looking forward to pulling names out of a hat later this week to award the goods!

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Extreme Ironing

Extreme Ironing...the next big thing at the X Games? Check out www.extremeironing.com for more. Or this ridiculous video (there's more on youtube if this doesn't sate your X ironing appetite...). For once, I'm at a loss for anything more to say.

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Rumbling Bald Fundraiser Update, Part II

Sweeeeet. Thanks to a couple of great contributions made today, we just passed the $300 mark! This has gotten us past the halfway point for the CCC's summer goal of $500 for the Rumbling Bald fund. Nice work! A huge thanks goes out to everyone who has contributed so far. Everybody from me to Misty to the CCC is super appreciative and amped on the showing of support from the climbing community. We've gotten quite a few donations from folks outside of the WNC area, including as far away as DC! So a big thanks to those folks who might not get to climb here every weekend but still made a donation.

The contest will run until July 14th, but for all those folks who were waiting for Friday and payday, now's your chance to get entered into the drawing! I just got the Petzl headlamp this week for the giveaway and it's pretty smooth. I gotta admit I wondered if I could somehow wrangle my 10-year old Tikka into the packaging and keep this new one, but I figured that'd be a weak-sauce move. So this shiny new headlamp's going to some lucky contributor next week. And of course, a Misty Powerpack and a cool book are up for grabs too!

Have a great weekend, and safe climbing everyone. As always, thanks for your support!



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Grayson Highland State Park Bouldering: a Summer Paradise for the SE?

If this picture doesn't make you get psyched, check your pulse!

photo by Aaron Parlier

If you've been looking for a nearby summer adventure climbing destination, and you wanna escape these crazy record high temps, head for the high elevations of the Virginia mountains in Grayson Highland SP. According to Mountainproject.com, the elevation there is 5,089 feet. If I'm not mistaken, that is higher than Grandmother mountain (the standard NC summer bouldering escape), which is at about 4,603 feet according to Wikipedia. Aaron Parlier, who has been doing a lot of development at GHSP and posting about the area, said evening temps are in the 50s. Yep, the 50s! Pretty good temps for sending, eh? Two of my friends are going bouldering there this week to check it out and I'm pretty much crazed with envy that I can't make it...so I'll just look at the pictures and share the online beta for now. (When Brad from Upstatebouldering.blogspot.com gets back I'm sure he'll have a full report for everyone....so stay tuned to his blog).

Here's what Aaron has to say about the boulders on the GHSP page on Mountian Project.com:

"Grayson Highlands State Park holds a gigantic pool of bouldering opportunity. A large amount of the bouldering here has yet to be discovered or developed, but the amount of currently established problems and boulders is huge, awesome, and growing monthly. There is everything from easygoing v-0's to completely horizontal v-9's with harder projects pending.The rock type found here is Rhyolite and possibly Tillite. Rhyolite is a sharp, geometric volcanic stone so you can be sure to find crimptastic hands and picturesque, angular features."

Check out the Mountain Project page for more beta about the 10 or so developed areas.

I was able to get a quick "interview" with Aaron via Facebook and ask him a few questions, which I'll add to this post a bit later. He's been developing the bouldering area since 2008 and is working on a full-color guidebook. Sounds like this place is about ready to blow up!

Here are few amazing pics from the area to get you more psyched (from the Mountain Project page):

 Travis Melin on "Horizon Line" (v5/6)

photo by Aaron Parlier

The Crests at Grayson Highlands State Park VA

photo by Aaron Parlier 

Shane Messer on "True Grit" (V-5+)

photo by Aaron Parlier

A map from Asheville (but check out the Mountain Project page for more detailed directions):


View Larger Map


7.18.2010 UPDATE WITH INTERVIEW AND VIDEO

Now that the contest has settled down I've gotten the chance to revisit the short Facebook interview I had with Aaron Parlier, who has been developing the boulders at Grayson Highlands State Park. (For my original post, click here.)


Frixtion: What's the rock like at GHSP?

Aaron: The GHSP boulders are Volcanic Rhyolite, which is completely unique in my experience, but several friends of mine have frequented Hounds Ears and say that its very comparable to the stone there. Most people say that Grayson is sharp at first, and then you tend to learn how to climb on the edges and it feels much better.

F: Where should a visitor go on their first day?

A: For someone’s first day I would recommend the Listening Rock Trail area if it's during the summer, as well as the Contact Station Bouldering area since they’re at a higher altitude and since the LRT is closed in the winter. Also, if they want the full value experience, I would recommend the Highlands Area during the summer (or anytime for that matter) because not only is there a constant breeze, but its exposed bouldering with wild ponies running around, and its epic up there. The Boneyard bouldering area is phenomenal but there isn’t a developed trail (yet, but it’s in the works) through its sub areas and it can be grown up in some places in the summer. In the fall and winter you can see all the boulders and then it’s great and I would recommend it first. The AVP boulders great year long and is fully developed with a trail.

F: Have you been one of the primary developers of the boulders?

A: Yes, I’ve bouldered in GHSP for about 4 years now, but didn’t fully realize its full potential until 2008 and that is when I started developing the area. I’ve been the only developer there and have established the large majority of the 220 boulder problems since '08. In the recent few months there has been a huge influx of interest in the park and I’ve seen a welcomed amount of boulderers there repeating the lines I’ve cleaned and sent. It’s really helpful to have a consensus on the grades. I’ve had help from my climbing partner Steve Lovelace in cleaning recently as well. I know James Litz climbed in the AVP area a long time ago while he lived in Jonson City, TN but he’s declined to claim FAs since he can’t remember the exact locations... I’ve documented the FAs on everything to the best of my knowledge and it seems to be pretty accurate.
  
F: Anything you want people to know before they come for a visit?

A: I would like people to know that dogs are allowed in the park. Also I am in the process of writing a full color guidebook on the park, so be looking forward to that. 
-----------------

Also, here's a video by Matt Bielejeski, who recently visited highlands and put together this nice look at some of the boulders (thanks, Matt).

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Rumbling Bald Fundraiser Update

I hope everyone had a great 4th of July weekend and got some climbing in. I practiced some aid climbing technique while finishing the paint job I started last fall on the exterior of my house. After 2 full days of painitng, I think I'm finally done with the project, and ready to climb A2 at least.

The fundraiser went really well over the weekend! The internet's been out at my house all weekend (perfect time to run an internet fundraiser, right?), but I've been really pleased to see the total climbing up every time I've had the chance to check it. Thanks so much to everyone who has contributed, and a special thanks to those who have thrown in more than the $10 minimum--you know who you are and your support has made a huge difference! As of Tuesday morning we've raised $140. This is going a long way towards the CCC's $500 summer goal!

I also have to give a big shout out to Brad Caldwell from Upstatebouldering.blogpsot.com. Brad's been helping to spread the word and his efforts got this fundraiser posted on Deadpointmag.com's home page. So thanks to Brad and to Deadpointmag for putting this promotion front and center on the site. DPM obviously has a real commitment to the climbing community and to access efforts everywhere.

It's not too late to donate and get entered into the fundraiser contest--you could win some booty, including a Misty Powerpack, and you automatically win the prize that has no dollar value: feeling good about buying some sweet rocks! If you climb on 'em, help the CCC buy 'em! This is most definitely a community effort, as everyone from donors to deadpointmag.com has shown. To donate, simply click on the Contribute button on the right side of this page. The contest only runs until July 14th...so lock in your chance for climbing boot-ay now! And thanks again to everyone who's pitched in so far.



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CCC Rumbling Bald Fundraiser! Win a Misty Powerpack!

Win prizes! Win glory! It's Frixtion's very first contest and Misty Mountain has donated a Powerpack to award to one lucky donor! This contest is to help the Carolina Climbers' Coalition's summer fundraiser for the purchase of the Rumbling Bald West Side boulders. The short term goal is to raise an extra $500 this summer to match the $500 recently donated. Can't donate 500 big ones? Well, neither can I! But if we all chip in a bit it really does add up. And if you donate through Frixtion between July 2nd and July 14th, you'll automatically be entered to win one of 3 fab prizes:

Grand Prize: A Misty Mountain Powerpack! (Thanks, Misty!)

 2nd Place: A Petzl Tikkina Headlamp

3rd Place: A copy of the book Digital Masters: Adventure Photography 

Here's the deal! Just click on the Donate Now link below and donate at least $10 to the fund.

DONATE NOW!

And that's it! You're automatically entered for the drawing. Now just sit back and bask in the glow of your good deed and wait until the prizes are announced on July 15th.

The CCC saved the West Side boulders from real estate development and secured their access for all climbers. This was a major success...and a sizable financial investment. Let's all show how much we appreciate their efforts and kick in a few bucks. You may also win yourself some booty! And when you're cranking your project at RB this coming winter you'll get a warm and fuzzy feeling knowing that saving the boulders was a community effort.

Here's a video that tells you all about the CCC West Side acquisition.

Help spread the word about the CCC's efforts to pay off the RB boulders and this contest. Please re-post to Facebook, Twitter, et all, and feel free to use the flier below to post in blogs or websites. (Click on it for a larger image that you can drag to your desktop.)

Again, special thanks to Misty Mountain for helping the WNC climbing community!

Fine print: You must donate through the link on this site to be entered. The contest runs from July 2nd and closes on the 14th. Colors of products shown may vary from final prizes. 

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Johngill.net...old school but way cool

I stumbled across John Gill's website this week. Yep, that venerable master of bouldering has a website and there's some cool stuff to be found. So far, the best I've seen is the "Origins of Bouldering" section (check it out here). You gotta see the pictures of British dudes cranking in what look like dinner jackets (no bare chested crushing in those days, I guess). But you gotta give those guys props, too. They were out there getting the bidness done before there were crash pads and when the latest shoe technology included nailed soles! All of Gill's site is worth checking out, but the history of bouldering shouldn't be missed. A few teaser shots:

Early Highballin'!

Photo copyright British Mountaineering by Claude E. Benson, 1909.

Photos via johngill.net


John's site has a lot of other historical info, training stuff, and other cool insights into this legendary guy who helped shape the idea of hard climbing as we know it today. It's definitely worth a visit.


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Interesting Ethan Pringle Interview at Climbing.com

I was surprised today to see Ethan Pringle's name pop up in Climbing.com's hot flashes section for getting the 3rd ascent of Australia's Wheel of Life (V15-ish). Last year Pringle sustained the same injury I had when I was 23--a torn labrum in the shoulder. And damn, has he bounced back fast. It took me over 2 years to fully recover. I guess he had a better PT.

One part of his interview really struck home though, and that was about rediscovering the pure joy of climbing on easy routes when injury takes away the obsession with grades:

"...We hiked over to East Cottage Dome and, against my better judgment, I got on this 5.10c. I actually had to push myself and my shoulder outside my comfort zone, and it ended up being one of the most satisfying climbs I've ever done. The whole experience was so fulfilling. It was great to know I could still get that feeling from easy climbing."

I got that same feeling the first time I sent the Basketball Mantle (V3) on the Shady Grove boulder at Rumbling Bald 2 years after my surgery. I felt like I had totally pushed myself and my shoulder, but it was the first time I felt I had climbed a "real problem" again. The feeling of satisfaction was just as great, if not better, than after sending my hardest projects in Boone years before. I still remember laying back on the rock, and just soaking the experience in and feeling grateful (especially cuz I almost biffed the mantle and fell from the top without a spot and just one deflated old Cordless pad!).

Anyway, reading this interview hit very close to home. The whole thing can be found at Climbing's hot flashes page.

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The Danger of Technique…and the Challenge of Restraint

I started climbing about 15 years ago, which means I was climbing before I could even drive a car. I’ve had a lot of high and low points with climbing during that time. But regardless of the highs and lows, there’s one thing that remains constant (besides my obsession) and that’s technique. It’s not that I have great technique, but over 15 years you learn how to move with the rock, not against it. Within a year after I started climbing seriously after taking 2 whole years off for a torn labrum, I was back to climbing V7/V8. Strength gains were a part of that, but largely it was due to the fact that technique stays with you, you don’t have to relearn it, and even if you’re a bit weak it can help you pull through a lot of stuff. And that’s where the danger of technique comes in for the injured climber, I’m finding.

I’ve had a messed up neck and shoulder for over a year now and I’ve lost a lot of strength in that time. But when I’m out climbing (especially if I’m with friends) I get psyched and can’t help but jump on a problem. A lot of times I can pull through only because I’ve got the technique to fall back on. And then I suffer the consequences with days of pain and a further prolonged recovery time. If technique went out the door at the same rate as strength, I’d be hopelessly shut down on most problems and couldn’t continue to hurt myself. So this is my big middle finger to technique! Damn you, muscle memory, for giving me just enough skill to think I can still pull down when it’s obvious I should be drinking Bud Light Lime on the couch. Of course, I can blame whatever I want (this is America dammit), but the real culprit here is obviously my lack of restraint. It’s a strange test of will to not climb since I’ve spent most of the last 15 years pushing myself with climbing. What a strange reversal: Not climbing is the new climbing, in the sense that climbing has always challenged me and now not climbing is maybe even harder.

What scares me the most is I think this is how getting old begins: Learning to accept with grace the things that are beyond your control. I’m sure there is some peace to be found in learning that lesson, I’m just not sure I’m ready to accept that I’m already there. I’d like to think I have at least a few years of grace-free living left in me.


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