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| Leading BOG Man, 5.10c, Ship Rock Photo, Zach Lesch-Huie |
In the last couple of weeks I've been getting out a good bit to do some rope climbing here in the High Country. I've been totally psyched because my left shoulder keeps feeling better and better even as I push it on the grades a little more each week. That's not to say my shoulders are perfect (now the right one is more tweaky)--after trying Unwritten Law (5.12c) a few weeks back, I couldn't climb for a week. But since then I've been back to the Dump, Ship Rock, and Sunken Treasure and I've been hitting some of the things on my tick list. At Ship, I sent BOG Man (10c trad) and The Anguish of Captain Bligh (5.11b trad, I think) in one awesome day. At the Dump, I just climbed Fry Cleaned (11d sport) this weekend, and The Stain (11c sport) at Sunken Treasure. I feel like I can probably bump it up into the 12a range on sport climbs now, and keep trying trad in the low 5.11 range. So I'm psyched for the rest of the summer! Just gotta keep the ice packs frozen and the Ibuprofen ready for when I get home...
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Sick man! You are getting strong again!
ReplyDeleteI led my first trad pitch ever yesterday at Seneca Rocks, WV-- it was a burly 5.9 hand crack.. So I'm in a happy place too with climbing at the moment :)
Nice work Matt! Leading Anguish has been on my list for a while.
ReplyDeleteKirby, thanks man! Starting to feel better every week. I just hope it stays this way instead of getting injured again. Congrats on your first lead. 5.9 is jumping into the deep end!
ReplyDeleteBrian, Anguish is a really doable 11, even tho I made it look ugly when I did it. :) It's a bit shouldery so that messed me up on style points! You should give it a shot next time your here. Leading Harpoon (10a) right next to it is a good gauge of whether stepping it up to Anguish feels right.
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