6.18.2010

Rock Climbing Camera Roundup

I’ve been thinking about getting a new camera for climbing lately because I’m pretty tired of lugging my big Canon Rebel around. It takes up a lot of room in a pack or pad and is something I’d rarely take up on a climb with me. So going small is key to me when choosing a new camera for climbing. And since I’ve been doing so much research, I thought I might as well share what I’m finding.


The Olympus EPL-1: The best climbing camera for the amateur D-SLR shooter?



To understand why this camera works so well for climbing, you need a little back story on the technology. D-SLR cameras (the ones with interchangeable lenses) have always been bulky because they have a mirror inside them that flips up when you press the shutter button, thus exposing the scene being shot onto the sensor. Olympus was the first camera maker to remove the mirror and use a very small sensor in a camera with interchangeable lenses. The result was the EP-1, which wasn’t quite pocket-sized, but was a damn sight smaller than your average clunky D-SLR.

The EP-1 came out in 2009 and it cost about a grand; a bit too pricey for most climbing shooters who want an affordable and small, yet capable camera. An updated EP-2 came out soon after, but the price was about the same. But with the recent release of the EPL-1, the price dropped to around $550—the same price you’d pay for a Canon Rebel or similar Nikon entry-level camera. The Olympus does everything you expect from a full-fledged entry-level D-SLR camera. RAW capture, aperture and shutter priority, HD video, a hot shoe for flash, plus the ability to change out lenses for different angles of view. Notably, this camera also makes the leap into more creative photography easier for the novice. Rather than requiring the shooter to know about apertures (f/stops) and shutter speeds, the camera menu offers up options like “Make background blurry.” Normally you’d need to know that you want to select a wide aperture to achieve this (plus a close focusing point on your subject), but the camera helps make the technical process less mental.

In recent months a whole slew of these small, mirrorless cameras have come out, most notably from Panasonic and Sony. However, Panasonic’s offerings, like the GF-1, are very cool but still pricey by comparison. And Sony’s ultra small NEX is mired with menu navigation issues that everyone seems to be complaining about. Maybe they’ll get this worked out on the next generation. If they do, watch out: The NEX will probably be the climbing camera to get since it too has a competitive price point and is even smaller than the Olympus.

One drag about getting into the interchangeable lens game is the cost of those extra lenses, which are often more than what the camera itself cost. Olympus does sell a converter for the EPL-1 that allows it to use many older Olympus lenses, which you can often find used for much lower prices. However, these are full-sized lenses that will seem awkward and heavy on this small-bodied camera. You’ll be wondering why you bought a small camera just to slap fat lenses on it. The kit lens that comes standard on the EPL-1 seems good enough though, and you may not need to buy a lens for a long time. But when you start hankering for more creative options or telephoto ranges, you’ll be glad you have the option to gear up to other lenses, even if it’s pricey.

New cameras in this mirrorless category are coming out at a fast pace, and it’s only a matter of time before Canon and Nikon jump in the game. Innovation happens fast, but at the moment if I were going to jump into buying a small, interchangeable lens camera, it’d be the EPL-1.


Pansonic Lumix: Great choices for compacts

There are a couple of other options I’d consider in the non-D-SLR category. I’m a big fan of the Panasonic Lumix series of cameras and they have two worth mentioning.

Panasonic Lumix LX-3:


UPDATE: The Lumix LX-5 is now available and offers a longer lens range of 24-90mm

The Lumix LX-3 does everything a D-SLR can do, only it’s got a fixed lens. But it’s super compact (this thing is really tiny), shoots in RAW, has a hot shoe for accessory flash, records HD video, and is a great choice for someone wanting a flexible camera but not wanting to jump into the lens game. In fact, the lens on this camera is one of its main selling points. It’s got a 24mm wide-angle lens with a large aperture that’s great for low-light and using fast shutter speeds. And the wide-angle lens is great for capturing close-in scenes like bouldering in the woods when you can’t get back very far from your subjects to take in the whole shot. However, the lens is also the one major complaint about this camera since it has almost no telephoto range whatsoever (I think it tops out around 60mm). If it did offer more in the way of capturing distant subjects, this camera would be just about perfect. As it stands, consider your shooting style before buying—if you shoot a lot of telephoto, like climbers high above you on a route, beware. If you don’t shoot tons of telephoto, keep in mind that this camera has a big sensor and records large image files, so you can always crop in close later on the computer to get up-close shots. Sure, it’s a bit of a workaround, but it is a sensible option if you’re excited about this kick-ass camera. It's also got an optional tele-converter you can buy, but who wants to remember to carry one? Going price is about $400. This camera has been on the market for about 2 years, so it should be updated soon. Hopefully they’ll add some more telephoto range to the update and this thing will be a killer camera for climbing.

Panasonic DMC-ZS7:



This last camera is a great choice for those who don’t need a lot of pro-camera features but still want creative options. The Panasonic Lumix DMC-ZS7 has aperture priority, shutter priority, manual mode, the ability to switch between aspect ratios, and a pretty crazy-long lens all in a very small package. The lens goes from a fairly wide-angle 25mm (which is unusual in a pocket cam) to a whopping 300mm telephoto. I’m sure that photo quality suffers to some degree with a lens this compact covering this focal range, but of all the reviews I’ve read this is seldom a complaint. One complaint I did read that is worth considering was that there is a noticeable shutter lag. How noticeable I can’t say, but this could make a difference when trying to capture your pal dynoing if the shutter doesn’t close until after he snags the jug. But shutter lag is a fairly common issue in the compact camera category and is one of the sacrifices made for the size and convenience you get. This camera still deserves serious consideration if you’re in the compact market, especially as the price is about $300. There is also a similar model, the Zs5, that has few less features and is in the $250 price range.

Side note: The ZS7 belongs to a category of cameras called “travel zooms” and there is a great, in-depth review of almost all of the latest cameras in this category at dpreview.com

This is far from an exhaustive list on all of the cameras that could fit the bill for good climbing cams, but these are the main ones I've been looking at.

So which camera am I thinking about? It’s a hard call, but the way I see it is I’ve already got a D-SLR, and even though it’s clunky, I’m not sure I want to spend $500 just to shave some size—so the Olympus is out for now. I love the Lumix LX-3, but it’s still pricey and the lack of telephoto capability is something to think about. So I’m currently leaning towards the Lumix DMC-ZS5 because it’s pretty affordable (ie, I won’t freak out about taking it out near the water at the Linville Gorge boulders), and it offers many of the things I like about the LX-3 with a better focal range. Seeing as how I’ve got a D-SLR for creative photos already, I’m gonna go cheap, easy, and compact so I’m more likely to carry it with me at all times. Now I just need to scrounge up 250 bucks.

Anyone have a camera they love for climbing? I’d like to hear other thoughts or suggestions!

6.15.2010

Movie Review: To The Limit



I was surfing around Netflix this weekend trying to find an instant play movie to watch. This is usually a frustrating experience that takes about half the length of time it would take to watch a movie, and then me and Melissa end up watching some drivel like Lethal Weapon 3.

But I was pretty enthused to come across ‘To the Limit,’ a German documentary about the Huber brothers’ attempt to break the speed climbing record on the Nose. Their goal was to climb the route in 2.5 hours. On their first trial run, they did it in something like 9 hours. Ah, the stage for drama is set!

Sadly, the movie only partly delivers. Thomas gets injured the first summer they attempt the climb, and then there’s a completely unnecessary sidetrack as the brothers head to Patagonia, where they hang out in tents for a long time and have very little video footage to show for an attempt to traverse the range. It really felt like the movie’s director didn’t have enough footage to make length and added this diversion.

So, the bros head back to the Valley the next summer, where they are drawing close to the record…until Alexander takes a giant whip and seems to get injured. (Side note: The giant falls these 2 take are never shown on film…why? In fact one of them is implied with slow-mo of falling rocks in a chimney for some reason.) We’re never really sure if he is injured or just a bit banged up since the movie ends there. Wait, what? Yes, it ends there, with some slackline footage and “words of wisdom” from iconic Yosemite homeless guy Chongo. Do the guys go back for another attempt? Do they succeed? Well, yes, eventually they do break the record, but the movie must’ve been set for distribution before they make it because it doesn’t even mention their success at the end. I had to go and find the info online.

So this is an imperfect documentary to be sure. But there are good parts, and I’d say even great parts. The coolest things:

1. I never knew the Huber brothers were human. I assumed they just showed up to the valley and crushed the record first-go with their mad German skills and efficiency. But through interviews you really get a sense of their personalities, rivalries, and even doubts. By the end, you’re seeing they are VERY human.

2. I had no idea what kind of belay / safety system gets used in speed climbing, and though it’s not fully explained, you get an idea of the ballsy techniques used to climb this fast. Basically, the leader’s already climbing as the second jugs up the line to the belay. Seems sketchy as hell!


3. There is some killer footage, both of landscapes and the Hubers hauling ass on the rock. The best part? The giant slow motion pendulum recorded 2000 feet off the deck. It takes like 3 major swings to nab this shitty crimper, and Alexander’s just floating out in space over the valley floor as he builds up momentum.

While I can’t give the movie glowing reviews for some of its weaknesses, I can say it’s worth watching, especially if you have Netflix and can check it out for free. It certainly held my attention for an hour and a half. Also, I woke up the next morning feeling like I had better get some exercise. The Huber brothers are probably in their 40s and they're out there making hard shit happen. It’s enough to make a person feel bad they just sat on their ass for about as long as it took the bros to climb the Nose.

The trailer:

Quick Note: Shortoff Mtn now open



According to the CCC website, Shortoff Mountain is open again to climbing after the seasonal falcon nesting closure. The usual closures at Looking Glass, Whitesides, Big Lost cove, and NC Wall are still in effect.

6.11.2010

Route Setting for the World Cup



I'm not a huge fan of comps or indoor climbing in general, but it's certainly an aspect of the sport that gets a lot of attention. I never really thought about who sets the routes for the mutants that will be climbing in these comps before, so this interview on B3bouldering.com with route setter Chris Danielson was interesting, especially when he says things like: "The third boulder was the least inspiring and a miscalculation from a routesetting perspective." I Imagine there's an insane amount of pressure and nerves when the whole climbing world is paying attention to the holds you selected, and the angle you screwed 'em in at.

6.10.2010

New Granite City Topo Available



Stroll on over to Upstate Bouldering to get a new PDF guide for bouldering at Granite City, which is near Cashiers, NC.

I've never been there myself, but look forward to checking it out sometime this summer. If I'm not mistaken, there are a lot of great waterfalls in the area as well, so you can make a pretty killer summer combo trip of bouldering and creek swimming.

Here's a video that shows the rock quality for those who have never been before and are considering the trip.




And here's a Google Map from Asheville (disclaimer: I haven't used these directions myself! Also check out the Upstate Bouldering site for more directions):


View Larger Map


Thanks for the great topo guide, Brad.

Update: Brad dropped some rope climbing beta into the comments:

There are also quiet a few roped routes at Granite City too. There are 2 ways to the mini-gorge in the very back...through some of the crevasses near the Drunk Tank boulder or to the right at the very end of the Back Alley area. The gorge has about 30-40 ft walls with mainly tougher top rope routes (bring a lot of slings/webbing to set anchors on trees at the top). There is also at least one trad route on a pillar in the middle of the crevasse maze, with a set on anchors on the top of the pillar. Bring your sense of adventure and your eye for developing and I'm sure there's a boulder or roped route for everybody.


Linville Gorge Bouldering

I've only been down into the gorge to boulder a couple of times, both without the help of a guide or a map. Even without a guide, it was fun just to wander around and scope out the possibilities. Back when I was there a couple of summers ago, there was very little chalk anywhere; you pretty much found a boulder, chose a line that looked good, and tried to climb. It's a fun adventure and the surroundings are hard to beat. The second time I made the hike in, it was starting to rain so I only got a couple of lines in before we had to bail. So I'm looking forward to exploring more in August after my move to Boone. For now, I thought I'd put together a collection of beta on the area.

First, a few videos to show ya the sweetness that is gorge bouldering. Here are a couple nice ones from DPM:


Linville Gorge North Carolina - Project Day from Werd on Vimeo.


The Wataugan(V12) from Nate Draughn on Vimeo.



Here's the trailer that LVM Rock made for their movie on climbing in the gorge. There's some great footage of the bouldering included, so check it out (and keep an eye out for some of the crazy highballs!):


Summer Ascents 08 from lvmrock on Vimeo.


Now for the beta:







Mike Stam has set up a online guide on his blog that shows problems and locations for TONS of bouldering in Linville Gorge. Mike has been developing problems in the gorge for years, and this site is a great resource for anyone wanting to get down there and explore. Get your adventure bouldering hat on, as well as yer swim trunks, and check out this guide:

movementonstone.blogspot.com

For a bit more info, including obviously important directions into the different bouldering areas, see UpstateBouldering's post on the gorge (Thanks, Brad):

http://upstatebouldering.blogspot.com/2009/10/wnc-local-spot-linville-gorge.html

Boulder photos: Mike Stam


ShareThis

6.08.2010

Cute...but odd



Okay, I work in the media industry. I know it's a challenge to find new content areas that haven't been explored. Finding a new niche gets you audience, and audience either gets you paid or gives you warm and fuzzies for getting your word out to the masses. But Cute Climbing Girls of the Week? I ain't no hater, but this just seems like...pandering? Something? Can't quite put my finger on it. But it just seems odd and makes me think some old-school traddy is rolling over in his grave (or van by the river) somewhere. But then, I guess you gotta take any climbing website with a whiskey glass logo with a grain of salt.

Check 'em out: pimpinandcrimpin.com



Photo: pimpinandcrimpin.com

Side note: Since I've been able to climb a lot less lately, I find myself looking at climbing websites a whole lot more. Something's gotta get you through the dry spells, ya know? I may continue to share more of the weird and cool stuff I find out there...

6.06.2010

Life changes... and finally, a little time on the rock



Major life changes are happening right now and most of them are pretty exciting, except for my climbing ability (but more on that in a minute). Last week I finally made the decision to attend graduate school. I had been dragging the decision out for some time, party because Melissa wasn't sure if she wanted to go and thus pay out of state tuition. (We both got accepted into the Speech Pathology program at Appstate.) We finally decided last weekend to go for it and do school. Aside from the tuition issue, I just got promoted to Editor at my job from Assistant Editor, and that made it a hard choice, too. I'd been working hard for years to get this promotion, but now I'm walking away after having the promotion for a month to give Speech Patho a try.

I've tried for a long time to find a career that could provide a good fit for climbing, and this seems like a good choice. Decent pay, you can work pretty much anywhere, you can have summers off if you work in the schools, you can do travel therapy. And you also get to help people. So I'm thinking it's worth going for it. Plus, I get the bonus of going back to Boone for a couple more years. The irony is, of course, now that I'm finally getting to go back, I can't climb worth a damn. Oh yeah, that made the decision harder too! Why pursue a career that has more freedom for climbing if I can't climb so well anymore? Hope springs eternal, I guess. Nothing inspires me like climbing, so I just gotta keep hoping I get over this injury stuff. Regardless, life is changing fast. I'll be leaving my job, fixing up and selling my house, and moving to Boone in the next 2 months. As well as completing 2 intense online courses. Whew.

Speaking of injury, it was just about a year ago that I jacked up my shoulder and neck and have been climbing like crap, with differing amounts of pain, ever since. But I have a new plan! For the rest of the summer I'm not climbing anything harder than V2/V3 or 5.10. I feel like I've been both babying my injury then overdoing it over and over again for the last year. So I'm going to try this approach and see if it makes a difference. Build the strength back up slowly, that's the goal.

It worked pretty well this weekend, when I got a chance to quickly run out to the North side boulders at Looking Glass early Sunday morning. I climbed a bunch of easy stuff and had a total blast. There are some really fun problems there, and the place gets so little traffic that it feels really isolated and natural. There are still plants and leaves at the base of the climbs--how often do you see that? Aside from the mank and the bugs (of which there are many) this place is at least a cool summer destination that can be a fun diversion.




Now that the cats out of the bag to work about me going to school, I'll keep updating as things move along. It's a lot of changes, but exciting ones, too. I can't wait to have boulders within a 10-15 minute drive from my house again. Now I just hope I can climb 'em....

6.04.2010

It's Summer-Going to the Gorge?... Use This Guide






I just stumbled across this great online resource: It's a webpage guide set up by Mike Stam that shows problems and locations for TONS of sick looking bouldering in Linville Gorge. Mike has been developing problems in the gorge for years, and this site is a great resource for anyone wanting to get down there and explore. Get your adventure bouldering hat on, as well as yer swim trunks, and check out this guide:

movementonstone.blogspot.com


UPDATE: For a bit more info, including obviously important directions into the different bouldering areas, see UpstateBouldering's post on the gorge (Thanks, Brad):

http://upstatebouldering.blogspot.com/2009/10/wnc-local-spot-linville-gorge.html

photo: Mike Stam

Rumbling Bald Cleanup Day June 12th



Chris Dorrity has lined up a work day with the park folks overseeing Rumbling Bald. Here's the lowdown:

We will be able to do a trail / boulder clean-up on the State's property on Saturday, June 12th. Meet at the parking area at 8:30 AM. We will be removing downed trees at the Obscure Area, Hull Area, and Central Boulders.

Let's not miss out on this opportunity to clean up these trees to be ready for next season!


if you want to help out, just show up!

Big Whip!



Is there anything more fun than watching people take giant whips on video? Well, maybe going climbing is more fun, but when you're killing time at work, it doesn't get much better. There's the build up of anticipation because you know they're gonna take the ride--but when? It's good desk-job therapy, so I thought I'd share.

Watch this kid take a HUGE whip on a small TCU on the Cobra Crack (5.14) at Squamish. Oh, and check out the gnarly mono lock at the crux, too.

6.02.2010

Climbing Magazine sold...again



Many folks probably know that Climbing magazine has been sold quite a few times in the last few years. Well, now it's been sold again (read more here). Sorry to say it, but in my opinion the magazine is starting to look like a washed up girl that used to be hot that's now been around the block too many times, and gets worse with each new partner. The quality has nose-dived over the last 10 years. At least in this case, the whole of Skram media, the company that owns Climbing (and Urban Climber and UCTV), is going with it to the new owner and not just selling off Climbing. But it's a sad state when something iconic that used to try to represent the best of climbing culture is being bought and sold again and again at the whim of large media companies trying to connect to our specific demographic (while slashing costs and quality), and not out of any apparent joy or love for the sport itself. That said, it looks like the new owners are getting some good folks in place to work on the mag, so maybe the love'll be represented by the staff, if not the owners. Time will tell. But I haven't renewed my subscription in 2 years, and it's gonna take a kick-ass refresh to get me back.

As a side note, if this stuff interests you, check out this interview with the past editor of Climbing. It speaks a lot to why the mag has declined over the years.